Monday, June 3, 2013

Pokhara, oh Pokhara how I loooove you!

Yes, can't you tell? I love the little neighborhood of Lakeside, the tourist area of Pokhara. Last you heard I was going to go sightseeing, which I did, but without Krishna. Instead, I had a knock on my door and a taxi driver asked if I was Laura, and if I was ready. I was, so I followed him downstairs and we were off! My driver had his uncle visiting, so he took the both of us on tour. First on the agenda was the World Peace Pagoda. It is known as the Pokhara Shanti Stupa,


Saint John-ers, stop complaining about the roads. Oh if you only knew. The roads in Lakeside are not as narrow as Kathmandu, but they are just as potholed and rugged. There is no way to go faster than, say, 40km, and that is pushing it. Most times, just like on the bus, the car moves slower than I could walk. Not that I would want to walk it, as we drove so far up a crazy winding hill to the parking lot of a small cafe. Then we started up the stairs.

So many stairs.

Hey, I'm no lazy girl. Since starting at the gym a couple months ago, I don't have the same trouble with hills or stairs I used to. Except at home we are at sea level-literally. When you start hopping your way happily up what seems to be a million stairs (actually just 500... yeah, just), you soon realize 5500 feet above sea level presents a complication. Before long I was gasping for air, trying my best not to just sit down and give up. I wanted to reach the top.

My taxi driver (why oh why am I so bad with names? I swear I cannot remember ANYONE'S name I have met other than Krishna, and that's because how do you forget a name like Krishna?) chuckled a little and told me it isn't a good idea to dance up the steps like I had been; slower is better. He was right, of course, but we made it to the top and I gulped down some water, and then it was time to see the stupa.

There are four statues to view, all from different countries. (Please read the wiki article linked above for the details, forgive me for not going into them all here.) I took pictures of the statues, the plaques explaining, and some of the different viewpoints. All are in public albums on my facebook profile, please check them out!

After viewing the pagoda and the surrounding area, we made our way back to the taxi and then back into Pokhara to see Devi's fall. This is a natural waterfall (are there unnatural waterfalls?) created where the Phewa river disappears underground. So first we hiked down some more stairs into a dark cavern, then down a rugged trail past a beautiful statue of Shiva. No, not the Final Fantasy GF/Aeon but the Hindu god! Oh geekery.) After stopping to receive a tilaka on my forehead we continued down the 100 feet to the ledge used to observe the falls.

What a sight! It is only the very beginning of monsoon season here, so the water was quite low. I was told that after the rains finish in late August, the noise in the cavern is absolutely deafening. I tried to take some pictures but they didn't turn out well; they are also in the album on FB.

Then it was time to climb up again; first stopping at another statue of a cow. You pay 10 rupees, (about 20 cents, if that) and then drop a ball into a tiny stone chute beside the statue. Then you start milking the cow udders, only to be blessed with milk from stone! The men with me were surprised when I actually made the proper milking motion; thank you summers at the farm in Norton! Milking goats and milking cows are quite similar.

So then we finished our climb, wandered through some market stalls to the outdoor park for Devi's falls. It gets its name not from Devil, which I assumed, but from a tragic accident in 1995 when a Swiss tourist was swept into the falls during a sudden surge of water. There is no where for you to get close enough for that to happen now.

I was able to get a few pictures, then we ambled through the garden, stopping for a rest in a pretty red building. I was told it was built in the same style most traditional Nepali homes were; one large room with everything including cooking, eating and sleeping in it. Soon we were back in the taxi and I was on my way to the hostel.

My driver told me I had the rest of the day to myself, but that he and Krishna would return to pick me up in the morning. 730AM I would be taken to my actual home for the next month; the Pal Ewam Monastic school

So after that trek up the stairs and down into the cavern, I needed a rest. I napped through noon, missing the hottest part of the sun (luckily my power was on so I could use the room fan)  and then went about finding some food. The wifi at the hostel SUCKED so I made sure to find a restaurant with free wifi. After strolling up the main road, I decided on a little place called Once Upon A Time. I had a grilled chicken salad, a gin and tonic (now my favorite drink) and when done, a scoop of chocolate ice cream.

I don't ice cream ever tasted so good.

I walked around for another hour or so, but the sun was still brutal and I wasn't planning on spending any money yet, so back to the hostel for a cold shower and another cat nap. It was much needed after not sleeping much the night before. I do believe I am starting to adjust, though, as later that night I would get a good 6 hours of sleep. Glory be!

For supper I found a semi busy restaurant called Banyan, and finally was able to order some MOMO! I had been so excited to try these and I finally had the chance. DELICIOUS. Momo's are a Nepal version of dumpling, similar to a steamed Japanese gyoza. I chose a chicken filling, and my oh my it was so good. It came with a semi-spicy dipping sauce, and if I hadn't also ordered some fish I would have gorged myself on all ten. But I had ordered fish, and it was worth it. So tender and flakey, not like fish from home tho; it didn't taste of the sea. It was a freshwater fish so it makes sense, but it was nice and light and YUM.

Oh, did I mention both meals were under 7 dollars, including the drinks? I could so get used to this.

After dinner I stopped off across the street from my hostel to chat with the 'cold store' owner I had been buying cans of coke from. He is a pleasant, happy fellow who always tried to add extras to what you want. Coke and water? How about cookies too? Also, tissue paper? I laughed and actually bought the tissue (toilet) paper; unlike the hostel in Kathmandu, mine did not supply any. (Nor did they have a handheld shower with which to wash after going.) So with purchases in hand I was back in my room, another cold shower (I have never loved a cold shower more than here) and then into bed.

Did I mention I brought a sheet, a blanket and a pillow from home in my luggage? And I am glad I did as it is so hot here I can't use the blankets provided. Instead, I lay out my blanket (my comfort blanket I usually can't sleep without anyway) and then use the sheet to cover up. Cool and easy sleep without missing home.

So that was Sunday, my day of adventure in Pokhara. I'll write about the monastic school tomorrow. I am finally tired and just want to SLEEP!

Namaste, friends.

PS: Thank you all for your comments! Here and on FB, I am totally feeling the love. Please, share the blog if you are liking it, and also (I hate to bring it up) my gofundme page. I can still receive donations here, and would love to be able to buy some paper and supplies for the monklets. They love to draw but paper is limited.

Thank you! Love from the other side of the world.

Laura

2 comments:

  1. In Utah, I jogged a few times, and was amazed at how much weaker my body was at that altitude. Many of the best runners come from the states touching the Rockies because the air is so much thinner, and your body gets used to it - then you go run, say, the Boston Marathon at sea level and you are like a god. Nepal must be like visiting another planet!

    Love,
    Drew

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    1. It is strange; sometimes the green hills and farms and dirt roads remind me of being 'up country' at home, then you realize those hills would be considered mountains in NB and those hills are growing banana and bamboo. It is amazing!

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