It is 430 am here in Pokhara, and the sun is already rising. It sets much earlier here, around 8pm. I am still having trouble sleeping. I am worried about it; hopefully once I get a chance to walk and explore and wear myself out, I might be able to get a good night's sleep.
Yesterday morning I woke up much earlier than I needed to for my 7am bus from KTM to Pokhara.
Fortunately I had wifi access and was able to chat with friends at home. It was nice to connect with them.
Then, I got ready and toted my luggage down the stairs to the lobby of the Kathmandu Peace Guest House; I was surprised to nixing the young guys who picked us up at the airport and worked in the hostel to be sleeping in the common room! Two shared a mattress on the floor and one was sleeping on a sofa. The owner/operator was awake, instructing the boys to get the van ready. I was the only one leaving so early!
We loaded my belongings in the van, waited for the engine to warm up and bam-I was off. The driver took me to a long line of buses, found the company I had a ticket with (Benchmark tours) and settled in for what turned out to be a 7 1/2 hour busride. While I was waiting for departure, a woman carrying a baby began banging on the side of the bus to get y attention. She started making eating motions and gesturing to her baby. An adorable, happy baby, but I didn't give her any cash. Maybe I'm heartless, but I just don't feel like handouts are solving anything. Plus I only had about 180 rupees (about 1.60 Canadian) and I wanted to keep them for water along the way.
The bus filled up and departed, driving thru Kathmandu slower than I could walk. The traffic and the roads are just so bad it is tough to do anything. When idling in traffic, young boys and some men would walk alongside, hawking chips, water, dried fruit and newspapers. 20 rupees for a bottle of water. That is maybe about 15 cents. I can't believe how much we pa for water back home, and we can drink from our taps... Drinking untreated water here will leave you with a bad case of dysentery. Anyway, I bought a water, handing the 20 rupee note out the window and reached for the cold bottle of water. It didn't stay cold long! The weather heated up and I was grateful when we started driving faster, the wind blowing through the window was refreshing.
We drove along, I was trying to rest and enjoy the scenery. I snapped pictures from the window, I will upload them as soon as possible. I am struck by the beauty of this country. The mountains a covered in lush greenery, exotic flowers grew alongside the road.
The road. Oh the road! Such a narrow, winding road through the valley up to Pokhara. Buses in front of us, buses behind us, vans and motorbikes beep as the pass. Twice we were almost in collisions as opposing traffic tried to pass in our lane, coming dangerously close to crashing into us. Yet they seem to know what they are doing.
Traffic in Nepal means almost non stop honking of horns. It is a continual array of different beeps, over and over. After a couple hours, I was able to ignore them for the most part. Then we stopped for lunch.
Oh it was a little roadside 'tourist lunch counter'. You chose from the menu what you want, then pay at an inside counter. Then you go to the next room with a receipt and get your food. It is all pre-prepared so that you can eat and get on the bus quickly. You know what? I can't eat quickly. Plus I only had that limited amount and was dying for an actual coke. My body is not handling the lack of caffeine very well. I don't know if they gouged me but I paid 150 rupees for a bottle. Less than what I would pay at home, more than I paid for the Pepsi at the Kathmandu hostel. But it was worth it. I was worried about eating and then getting on the bus and being sick without being able to stop.
However I did experience something new... I used a squat toilet at the rest stop. The toilets were in these small, dark closets without a light (mental note, keep a flashlight in my backpack to prevent having to do business in the dark), with a tap and a small hand bucket nearby. I hiked up my skirts and did my business and cleaned up, proud at having researched this previously so that I knew what I was doing. It wasn't so bad, either. Just different.
Anyway, we were back on the bus and traveling again, gorgeous landscapes rolling by. I kept trying to nap, I was so tired ( I've been tired since leaving London) but to no avail. So I put in headphones and listened to music while I read, occasionally taking a picture from the window. We stopped a second time for food and toilet breaks, and damn I wanted momo's but had no Nepali currency. They looked so good! I can't wait until I get to try some. I will find them today as I explore Pokhara.
Finally we finished the journey, and I looked out the window into the crowded dirt parking lot for Krishna, the head of Alliance Nepal. He led me to a cab and then climbed on his motorcycle, meeting me at the Be Happy Guest House, where I am spending two days before leaving Monday morning for the monastery. (I am so freaked out at the idea of teaching but that is what I signed up for and so I will do my best).
After getting settles in the hostel, filling out some paperwork for the organization and handing over my fees, Krishna gave me homework! He handed me some sheets of Nepali/English translations, and instructed me try and learn. One of my goals is trying to pick up some of the language, but damn it is so very different than any language I have tried to learn before. I have trouble even hearing differences in what people are saying. I hope that once I am able to get a good nights sleep and get into a grove, I will be able to start comprehending it better. I hope.
So Krishna left me with some free time, saying he would be back at 7 to take me to supper. We walked down the main road in Lakeside (the part of Pokhara I am staying in right now) to a beautiful outdoor restaurant. A young man from Denmark that is staying with Krishna's family and teaching at a local school was waiting, and we sat down to a delicious dinner. I had chicken tikka masala with rice. So absolutely delicious, and no gastric distress! I am amazed at how little the foods I haves been eating make me sick; at home this style of cooking usually means I'm sick for the next day! Here, so far so good.
We talked about our home countries, what Pokhara was like, storied of our families while we ate. There was also a stage at the side of the dining area where a troupe of locals performed traditional Nepali dances and songs.
After supper, the young man from Denmark (for the life of me I can't remember his name, it was rather peculiar) walked me partway down the street while Krishna retrieved his motorcycle. It was a pleasant chat, then we parted ways and I walked the last block through the dark streets (very few street lamps or lights on the road) and clamoured up the steps to my room.
A quick shower, nice and cool and refreshing, then the power was out! This happens often, as Nepa, cannot produce enough power to sustain 24 hour service. I found my flashlights (the head lamp kind) and hung them from the ceiling fan. It was the time to get ready for bed; I wanted to read some more language translations, but my head was killing me and I only had Tylenol PM.
Eek! Somehow I forgot to bring regular acetaminophen, regular ibuprofen AND my contact lens solution. So one of my goals today is to find these necessities!
Anyway, I watched a movie on my computer and then went to bed, falling asleep for about 4-5 hours. I need a better nights sleep.
This morning I am meeting Krishna at 9am to go sightseeing, then this afternoon I will have free time to explore a bit. It is very intimidating, even tho the streets here are cleaner than Katmandu and there are many more tourists here.
I am missing certain things. My cat. The ability to just call or text a friend whenever I want. Cold, very cold cans of Coke. Even just rewarding myself with a video game at the end of the day. Yet I knew this would be difficult. The difficult things are usually the most worthwhile.
So worry not, friends, I am surviving. I know I will be able to stay positive as long as I can start sleeping better! I will y to upload this as soon as I can find an internet connection. For now, I have a couple hours before I need to get up and get ready. I am going to try and sleep, hopefully even just a nap will help.
Namaste,
Laura
Yesterday morning I woke up much earlier than I needed to for my 7am bus from KTM to Pokhara.
Fortunately I had wifi access and was able to chat with friends at home. It was nice to connect with them.
Then, I got ready and toted my luggage down the stairs to the lobby of the Kathmandu Peace Guest House; I was surprised to nixing the young guys who picked us up at the airport and worked in the hostel to be sleeping in the common room! Two shared a mattress on the floor and one was sleeping on a sofa. The owner/operator was awake, instructing the boys to get the van ready. I was the only one leaving so early!
We loaded my belongings in the van, waited for the engine to warm up and bam-I was off. The driver took me to a long line of buses, found the company I had a ticket with (Benchmark tours) and settled in for what turned out to be a 7 1/2 hour busride. While I was waiting for departure, a woman carrying a baby began banging on the side of the bus to get y attention. She started making eating motions and gesturing to her baby. An adorable, happy baby, but I didn't give her any cash. Maybe I'm heartless, but I just don't feel like handouts are solving anything. Plus I only had about 180 rupees (about 1.60 Canadian) and I wanted to keep them for water along the way.
The bus filled up and departed, driving thru Kathmandu slower than I could walk. The traffic and the roads are just so bad it is tough to do anything. When idling in traffic, young boys and some men would walk alongside, hawking chips, water, dried fruit and newspapers. 20 rupees for a bottle of water. That is maybe about 15 cents. I can't believe how much we pa for water back home, and we can drink from our taps... Drinking untreated water here will leave you with a bad case of dysentery. Anyway, I bought a water, handing the 20 rupee note out the window and reached for the cold bottle of water. It didn't stay cold long! The weather heated up and I was grateful when we started driving faster, the wind blowing through the window was refreshing.
We drove along, I was trying to rest and enjoy the scenery. I snapped pictures from the window, I will upload them as soon as possible. I am struck by the beauty of this country. The mountains a covered in lush greenery, exotic flowers grew alongside the road.
The road. Oh the road! Such a narrow, winding road through the valley up to Pokhara. Buses in front of us, buses behind us, vans and motorbikes beep as the pass. Twice we were almost in collisions as opposing traffic tried to pass in our lane, coming dangerously close to crashing into us. Yet they seem to know what they are doing.
Traffic in Nepal means almost non stop honking of horns. It is a continual array of different beeps, over and over. After a couple hours, I was able to ignore them for the most part. Then we stopped for lunch.
Oh it was a little roadside 'tourist lunch counter'. You chose from the menu what you want, then pay at an inside counter. Then you go to the next room with a receipt and get your food. It is all pre-prepared so that you can eat and get on the bus quickly. You know what? I can't eat quickly. Plus I only had that limited amount and was dying for an actual coke. My body is not handling the lack of caffeine very well. I don't know if they gouged me but I paid 150 rupees for a bottle. Less than what I would pay at home, more than I paid for the Pepsi at the Kathmandu hostel. But it was worth it. I was worried about eating and then getting on the bus and being sick without being able to stop.
However I did experience something new... I used a squat toilet at the rest stop. The toilets were in these small, dark closets without a light (mental note, keep a flashlight in my backpack to prevent having to do business in the dark), with a tap and a small hand bucket nearby. I hiked up my skirts and did my business and cleaned up, proud at having researched this previously so that I knew what I was doing. It wasn't so bad, either. Just different.
Anyway, we were back on the bus and traveling again, gorgeous landscapes rolling by. I kept trying to nap, I was so tired ( I've been tired since leaving London) but to no avail. So I put in headphones and listened to music while I read, occasionally taking a picture from the window. We stopped a second time for food and toilet breaks, and damn I wanted momo's but had no Nepali currency. They looked so good! I can't wait until I get to try some. I will find them today as I explore Pokhara.
Finally we finished the journey, and I looked out the window into the crowded dirt parking lot for Krishna, the head of Alliance Nepal. He led me to a cab and then climbed on his motorcycle, meeting me at the Be Happy Guest House, where I am spending two days before leaving Monday morning for the monastery. (I am so freaked out at the idea of teaching but that is what I signed up for and so I will do my best).
After getting settles in the hostel, filling out some paperwork for the organization and handing over my fees, Krishna gave me homework! He handed me some sheets of Nepali/English translations, and instructed me try and learn. One of my goals is trying to pick up some of the language, but damn it is so very different than any language I have tried to learn before. I have trouble even hearing differences in what people are saying. I hope that once I am able to get a good nights sleep and get into a grove, I will be able to start comprehending it better. I hope.
So Krishna left me with some free time, saying he would be back at 7 to take me to supper. We walked down the main road in Lakeside (the part of Pokhara I am staying in right now) to a beautiful outdoor restaurant. A young man from Denmark that is staying with Krishna's family and teaching at a local school was waiting, and we sat down to a delicious dinner. I had chicken tikka masala with rice. So absolutely delicious, and no gastric distress! I am amazed at how little the foods I haves been eating make me sick; at home this style of cooking usually means I'm sick for the next day! Here, so far so good.
We talked about our home countries, what Pokhara was like, storied of our families while we ate. There was also a stage at the side of the dining area where a troupe of locals performed traditional Nepali dances and songs.
After supper, the young man from Denmark (for the life of me I can't remember his name, it was rather peculiar) walked me partway down the street while Krishna retrieved his motorcycle. It was a pleasant chat, then we parted ways and I walked the last block through the dark streets (very few street lamps or lights on the road) and clamoured up the steps to my room.
A quick shower, nice and cool and refreshing, then the power was out! This happens often, as Nepa, cannot produce enough power to sustain 24 hour service. I found my flashlights (the head lamp kind) and hung them from the ceiling fan. It was the time to get ready for bed; I wanted to read some more language translations, but my head was killing me and I only had Tylenol PM.
Eek! Somehow I forgot to bring regular acetaminophen, regular ibuprofen AND my contact lens solution. So one of my goals today is to find these necessities!
Anyway, I watched a movie on my computer and then went to bed, falling asleep for about 4-5 hours. I need a better nights sleep.
This morning I am meeting Krishna at 9am to go sightseeing, then this afternoon I will have free time to explore a bit. It is very intimidating, even tho the streets here are cleaner than Katmandu and there are many more tourists here.
I am missing certain things. My cat. The ability to just call or text a friend whenever I want. Cold, very cold cans of Coke. Even just rewarding myself with a video game at the end of the day. Yet I knew this would be difficult. The difficult things are usually the most worthwhile.
So worry not, friends, I am surviving. I know I will be able to stay positive as long as I can start sleeping better! I will y to upload this as soon as I can find an internet connection. For now, I have a couple hours before I need to get up and get ready. I am going to try and sleep, hopefully even just a nap will help.
Namaste,
Laura
your first squat toilet,you'll be a pro in no time :) great blog update!
ReplyDeleteEnjoying reading about your adventures! My Sari got used to those squat toilets in the Philippines. If you can get some melatonin, it's very good for helping with jet lag.
ReplyDelete